Tasting Empire: Chocolate and the European Internalization of Mesoamerican Aesthetics

This article offers a new interpretation of how and why Europeans developed a taste for chocolate. While previous studies have suggested that Europeans transformed chocolate materially and ideologically in order to make it fit their existing set of tastes and prejudices, it is demonstrated that Europeans learned to like chocolate on Indian terms as a result of their status as cultural minorities in colonial Mesoamerica. In addition this article uses the historical case study of chocolate's trans-cultural migration to revise current models of taste used in historical and anthropological literature. It rejects biological-essentialism and cultural-functionalism and instead shows that taste is an independent historical variable affected by social circumstances.